"Eliminating" Parallax using Panosaurus heads

[Tuddi]

Coming from THIS (http://flashpanoramas.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4104&postcount=6)thread;

http://upload.hraunfjord.org/files/PanosaurusHeadsComp.gif

The above image shows 3 nadir shots with panosaurus (gregwired.com) heads, where 2 of them have significant parallax problems. The first one (mine) is free of that problem due to modifications done to the head.

Before you do anything of the following, you HAVE TO allign the camera to the correct position as instructed in the brochure that comes with the Panosaurus head. If you don't, you will destroy your pano head!

Make the measurements carefully and correctly.... don't hold me responsible for any errors you make

http://upload.hraunfjord.org/files/BottomOfPanosaurus1se.jpg

Be SURE to make the hole narrower than the head of the screw, so that the screw will not fall out when the camera is not mounted.

http://upload.hraunfjord.org/files/MountingPlateOnPanosaurus1.jpg

Notice that I cut off excess material from the left side of the mounting plate (image above). Due to the material used in the panosaurus head, it is very easy to customize, and even though there is limited weight saved by cutting off excess parts, it will result in lesser dimensions.

http://upload.hraunfjord.org/files/MountingPlatePinAndScrewOnPanosaurus1copy.jpg

Ok, the pin with the additional head is not something you'll find in your local hardware store. I got my pin from (if I remember correctly) a floppy drive I disassembled... or a cassette player. Instead of using equally formed pin, one could cut a stainless or messing screw to the right length and insert it from the other side, allowing it's tip (not head) to stick through the mounting plate.

I hope this can serve to help Panosaurus head users to get better and faster results with their equipment. For me it made a huge difference.

I normally have the camera mounted on the pano head (makes a very good platform to shoot normal photos... more stable when using both hands holding it when positioned in an "L")

[cheathamlane]

Tuddi:

Interesting! Wish I had that head so I could mod it. ;)

You might think about posting information like this to the IVRPA forum or email list, or to the PanoTools NG list -- on both of which there are avid modders.

Cheers,

[Tuddi]

I also made a carrying case for the head+camera+reserve battery+remote control+screwdriver+sunshade+extra memory+extra remote control battery...

Obviously I am using the camera to take the pictures, so it's not mounted to the panohead in the case.

http://upload.hraunfjord.org/files/CameraCarryingCaseOpen.jpg

http://upload.hraunfjord.org/files/CameraCarryingCaseClosed.jpg

In the beginning I had the bubble level de-mountable, but since then I have deemed it more safe and secure to have it glued to the head (after it had fallen to the ground several times). Only 3 drops of instant glue, so that it can be removed if need be.

And then there is my cheap alternative for the "degree rings" that come with the expensive range of the panoheads: A paperclip bent into shape... and it works!

http://upload.hraunfjord.org/files/PanosaurusDegrees1.jpg
http://upload.hraunfjord.org/files/PanosaurusDegrees2.jpg

The red markings are the degree markings I use for taking panos... no need to think numbers... just go for the next red marking.

Well... for me this works wonderfully well, and hopefully other users of the Panosaurus heads can benefit from this as well.

[Tuddi]

Thank you Patrick :)

IVRPA forum or email list, or to the PanoTools NG list

Who-ha... what's that??

I mean... I know how to take photos, but I have only VERY RECENTLY started to read about other people's experiences with Pano work and such... You and everyone else are hereby granted the right to repost the above "panosaurus tuning tips" elsewhere.

Believe it or not... but this modification I did on the second day of having the head, has kept the camera 99% aligned since then. Total cost was one paperclip and 30 minututes of my time (and less than a minute with my electrical jacksaw worth in electricity).

I have occationally thought about sending a post like this to gregwired.com , but never took the time to document or write it (until today after offering the info to Nate, and having him to respond positively :) )

I have seen many panos taken with panoheads that cost the white out of the eyes, with parallax capable of visually crippling people... while mine has managed to stay in place.

75 dollars (gregwired.com Panosaurus panohead) or 700-2500 dollars for a more "professional" head.

Of course the Panosaurus isn't supporting cameras that weigh alot... but it supports what it can... and if I would get a heavier camera, I would strengthen the structure to make it fit my needs.

[user101]

While the examples show stitching problems, they may not be indicative of parallax problems. You have to look at the source images and compare the overlapping areas of two images at a set degree of rotation. Compare the pixel alignments of near and far objects in the two images. Modifications like this may provide better repeatability when setting up the head, but unless the measurements are correct to start with, you'll either get or avoid parallax errors. Pin registration or fixed parts are used in various models of pano heads to provide for this repeatability in dismantling and setting up the equipment. While the paper clip helps with the degrees, a rotator with adjustable click stops better serves the same purpose - repeatability. 360 precision even went as far as marking the starting/end point on the rotation unit to allow for incredibly minute differences in the machining of the stops in a stitching template. Personally, I think the improvements in software has made hardware precision less important. Which obviously speaks to the Panosaurus head being all you really need.

[cheathamlane]

Hey Tuddi:

There's also the venerated QTVR-Talk list from Apple (lists.apple.com), but it is very low traffic these days. Hmmm...

PanoToolsNG:
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/PanoToolsNG/

IVRPA:
http://ivrpa.org/forum

There are others, but these I frequent in my native tongue. :) "panocanarias" (Klaus?) indirectly pointed me to another list, in German:
http://panorama-forum.net/

[johnwilletts]

A brilliantly engineered solution, Trudi. I've highlighted the degrees with a felt tip pen. Problem is, (because of age and alcohol) I usually forget where I started - which ends up with 5,6,7 or 8 shots.

As most of my work is in the wild, I've found painting the feet of the tripod in different flourescent colours helps with the stitching.

The Panosaurus spirit level is a waste of time. Buy a proper camera spirit level which fits on the hot shoe (about 10 pounds from Jessops).

I've found a two part solution to carrying the kit over miles of open countryside (like Dartmoor), first I bought the largest rucksack I could find, which takes the camera, head and tripod - without having to take it to pieces. Then I found a beautiful partner to research the locations - and carry it all for me - leaving me to be creative:) If you look very carefully, you can see her trying to hide behind bushes and rocks - she won't let me Photoshop her out.

Can I suggest to anyone about to buy an expensive head - spend your money on a fisheye lens. Far fewer Nodal problems.

I wish I could get Flashificator to work

John

www.j-a-willetts-esq.com (http://www.j-a-willetts-esq.com)

[andrew22222]

I always thought the Panosaurus was designed just for the small cameras.

I started out with a panosaurus head, Coolpix 8400 and the FC - E9 fisheye /ship anchor. It was possible to use the combination in the landscape position but forget using the arm for portrait. Lot's of stitching problems. Tried all sorts of modifications on sunday afternoons and eventually went too far :rolleyes:

Switched to the Agnos MrotatorB which is designed for the FC - E9 but still had problems and the weight is crazy.

Called it quits and went for the Nikon D80 & 10.5mm sat on a Nodal Ninja 3. Wonderful combination and so much easier. Well worth the $230 for the NN3 and spent way to long messing around with other equipment. I too think the other pano heads are way over priced so would highly recommend the NN3 to start out with. Still needs the the added hotshoe spirit level despite what the instructions say.

Andrew

[Tuddi]

I wish I could get Flashificator to work


I wish you could too John.

This means that you are a Mac user?

Finding a solution to the Mac compatibility issue is in priority mode.

[johnwilletts]

Certainly NOT a Mac user.

To be fair, it was only my first try. Will spend some time on it later today.
Nothing better to do: weather lousy, work up to date, waiting for new equipment to be delivered so its either playing with Flashificator or being the grumpy old man on this Forum

[Tuddi]

He he :) Ok... is this the latest version you downloaded? I have personally tried it on my 6 puters (different setups, different equipment, same lousy Windows OS) and have had absolutely no problems at all.

If you have the older version, you might fall over a couple of disturbances in the installation process.

If need be, use your "Control Panel" to uninstall the Flashificator in "Start>Control Panel>Add or Remove Programs" and reinstall the latest version.

It should be "click and you're there". If you experience any problems at all, I would be extremely thankful to receive screenshots of your process and how things look when something should be happening, while nothing happens.

Lousy weather... sounds so european (I say with a smile, sitting in shorts, sandals, and polo-shirt... getting really sweatty here in the early morning hours. Summer is over us here.... finally).

Hope your installation of the Flashificator will prove as easy as it has for me here at home.